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Kasuri is a weaving technique where pre-dyed yarn is used to create patterns in the warp or weft threads, or both. This technique, also known as ikat, is said to have originated in India and spread throughout the world, coming to Japan through Okinawa. Kurume Kasuri was invented around the year 1800 by a young girl named Den Inoue, a weaver from the former Kurume feudal domain (what is now an area in southern Fukuoka Prefecture that contains towns such as Hirokawa, Chikugo, and Yame). Though there used to be over 300 Kurume Kasuri weavers, today less than 20 remain. These makers employ a wide range of techniques, from traditional hand weaving and indigo dyeing, to production that uses power shuttle looms — this diversity in production a defining characteristic of the modern Kurume Kasuri craft.

Like many other workshops of its kind, Ikeda Kasuri Kobo used to outsource labor to workers called dashibata, who would carry out the weaving process at home during the farming off-season. However, the number of dashibata have declined due to an aging population and the shift to more compact housing arrangements making it increasingly difficult for many to keep a loom at home. In response, Ikeda Kasuri Kobo created an open, glass-walled workshop in 2017, where the production process is visible from the gallery-shop. They also created a system where weavers can drop by at their own convenience and weave as much as they like; Ikeda Kasuri Kobo then buys the woven fabric outright at a piece-rate basis. A diverse group of craftspeople, from veteran weavers to young mothers, come together here to continue the Kurume Kasuri craft.

In this experience, learn about the history and craftmaking techniques of Kurume Kasuri. Afterwards, head to the gallery to take a look at kasuri fabric and visit the weaving workshop to see craftspeople at work. Making Kurume Kasuri is an elaborate process that involves over 30 steps and takes about three months to complete, making it fairly difficult to fully grasp in one day. However, weavers themselves will carefully explain each step of the process to help deepen your understanding of this complex craft. Through this introductory course, which offers indigo dyeing and resist-dyeing experiences, gain valuable insights into the rich world of Kurume Kasuri.

First prepare for indigo dyeing. Using samples of Ikeda Kasuri Kobo’s past dye work as inspiration, design your own pattern by combining resist-dyeing techniques such as itajime (clamping fabric between wooden boards), shibori (tying fabric with bands), and folding. After the preparations are finished, move to the dye studio filled with vats of domestically produced Tade Indigo. Try indigo dyeing yourself while learning about the raw materials that go into indigo, the fermentation process, and how thread is tied and dyed to make kasuri yarn. It’s a special sight to watch the colors change from a dark green-brown to a beautiful indigo blue after dyed fabrics are exposed to oxygen. You can bring a piece of fabric/clothing about the size of a hand towel to dye at no additional cost. However, if you bring more than one item or objects larger than hand-towel size, please pay an additional fee on site.photo: Koichiro Fujimoto